 Dealing with Low-Tech Algae the Easy Way
So - you’ve started a new planted aquarium, it’s cycling away, you’ve put in some plants and hardscape and everything is looking great. Then one day you look in to admire your hard work and there is algae on your leaves, diatoms on your substrate, and generally things just look like a huge mess. Your immediate reaction will be to make some changes to your lighting, or your fertilisation, or throw in some algaecide, maybe mess with some other parameters you feel might be the root of the issue. But wait! Sometimes the key to beating algae is to simply just wait it out. Good foundations are key If your aquarium has been set up with good foundations, you’re off to a great start. What are these good foundations? Adequate filtration and circulation for the volume of your water, a regular fertilisation schedule or nutrient rich substrate (ideally both), adequate lighting and 70% or more of your substrate planted out. A setup with all of these basic foundations addressed will become a balanced system over time, as plant mass increases and outcompetes algae for nutrients. Don’t mess around One of the most common mistakes when algae appears suddenly is to jump in and start making big changes in the hopes it will go away. In reality, even the smallest change in your system can cause an imbalance, which stresses your plants as they attempt to adapt to fluctuating parameters. The stressed plants attract more algae and the problem worsens. Due to the slow growth and adaptation of plants in low-tech setups, you might not see differences until several weeks after a change has been made. But you might have made even more changes since then – so the algae just keeps getting worse! Providing a stable environment is important for the health of your plants, and if you keep fidgeting with lighting, fertilisation, etc, your plants won’t get a chance to settle in and start growing! Healthy plants are far and away the best defence against algae, as they’re able to outcompete it for nutrients. Wait it out Algae forms when there’s an imbalance in your system. New tanks are all but guaranteed to be imbalanced as everything settles and roots are only just starting to form. Ammonia levels are fluctuating along with dissolved organics and other nutrients. It’s important at this stage to let your aquarium do its thing, and keep it stable. Don’t change anything. Don’t use algaecide. You really just have to wait! Keep your fertilisation and lighting period regular as clockwork, ensure filtration is adequate and perform regular water changes with siphoning of organic waste to keep these levels as low as possible. Any algae that can come off easily can also be siphoned up, along with any decaying plant matter which should be removed on sight. Damaged, decaying or otherwise unhealthy leaves always attract algae as they leak organics and nutrients, and won’t be “repaired” by the plant. Removing them is the best option. Everything takes time in low tech aquariums. As your plants are going to grow slowly, you will see the effects of any changes slowly. It can take several weeks for your aquarium to find its balance and for algae to dissipate, but it will happen providing the foundations are in place. If you can’t wait, or you have a couple of straggling bits of algae that just won’t disappear, you can always spot dose LCA Carbon Plus on affected areas, or hydrogen peroxide is also a popular choice. What you really want is for your plants to be healthy and growing to their best ability. Provide that environment and algae will be a distant memory. From The LCA Team Every Solution For Your Aquarium  Anubias, Java Fern and Buce are attractive slow-growing plants, often praised for their hardy leaves and relative ease of care.
They flourish in a variety of water types and are tolerant of most lighting levels, growing happily even in very low light. Their slow growth speed makes their demand for nutrients low, requiring very little care for beautiful results. The tough leaves are also less likely to be eaten by herbivorous livestock, making them suitable for aquariums where other more delicate plants might be destroyed. The sheer variety of anubias and buce species, subspecies and variants only adds to their popularity. Not So Tough While true that these plants are generally tough on the outside and easy to care for, they are still susceptible to algae and deficiencies, and can sometimes appear to die suddenly for no perceptible reason! Algae The slow growth and firm leaves of anubias, buce and java fern invites algae, as they provide a stable surface not only for the algae to grow on but for detritus to settle. Detritus on the leaves releases nutrients that algae loves. As the amount of detritus and algae on leaves increases, less light is received by the leaves and photosynthesis slows. Plant growth is impacted, the plant gets stressed – leading to even more algae. Melting Sometimes anubias or java fern seem to suddenly die off, even though they looked healthy right up until the last minute. Because these plants have such a hardy exterior, they often don’t show signs of stress until it’s too late – they’ve been dying on the inside for a long time and eventually can’t go on. This is often caused by photosynthesis being significantly impacted, whether that’s by algae or detritus on leaves or reduced lighting (from being shaded or a change in lighting/photoperiod). Another primary cause is a change in fertilisation or water change schedule. Because the plants grow and adapt slowly to these changing conditions, the effects won’t be seen until long after the changes have been made. The “delayed response” means your java fern/anubias may have been dying slowly for a long time, and eventually reaches a point where the exterior of the plant is affected, causing the typical “melt”. Disease While true that melting is most commonly caused by a change in conditions, java fern and anubias can also be damaged by a disease affecting their rhizome and root systems. The rhizome, roots or both start to rot away, eventually destroying the entire plant. Keeping slow-growers healthy To keep your plants as healthy as possible, there are a few things you can do. A regular maintenance schedule goes a long way. This includes siphoning of detritus and gentle brushing of leaves to remove accumulated waste along with regular water changes. Ensuring aquarium water flow is adequate will also reduce the amount of detritus settling. Otherwise healthy leaves that have been affected by algae can be treated with LCA Carbon Plus or LCA Triple B. Leaves that are too damaged should be removed entirely as they won’t recover. Revise your lighting or plant placement to improve their photosynthesis, or reduce lighting intensity if your leaves are getting too much. Slow growers don’t need much to be happy, and too much light will invite algae, especially GSA. If you suspect disease is affecting your plants rather than improper care, you can confirm it with a quick visual inspection. Keep an eye on the rhizomes – if they appear to bulge uncharacteristically, or are discoloured (white/brown) or soft (think of a carrot that’s been left in the fridge too long), there’s a good chance disease is taking hold. Trim off any affected portions of rhizome and discard. Observe the rhizome over a few weeks for any further signs of damage and remove as necessary. If the roots are diseased, roots or their tips will become discoloured (brown/white/yellow/translucent) while the rest of the plant appears mostly normal. As the disease progresses, the rest of the plant will be affected as well, showing typical signs of plant stress as it becomes unable to absorb nutrients. Again, remove and discard as much affected plant material as possible. Remember, slow growing plants are also slow to show signs of change – make adjustments and observe for changes in appearance and new growth. From The LCA Team Every Solution For Your Aquarium  Appearance Green water appears as just that – your aquarium water becomes bright green and opaque. It’s not at all harmful to your livestock (in fact, they may appreciate it!) but it does look unsightly and can affect plant growth due to its ability to block light. It commonly appears in tanks that are still establishing, but will also appear when there is too much light coupled with excess organics from waste and overfeeding. Warm temperatures will also encourage green water in combination with these other factors. Treatment If your tank is still in the process of cycling or has only recently been set up, rather than treating, it might simply be a case of waiting for the aquarium system to stabilise. If the tank is more mature, you may need to reduce your light period, or raise your light so it is not as intense. Maintain a regular maintenance schedule of siphoning detritus and changing water on a weekly basis to ensure nutrient and organic levels don’t get too high. Performing a 3-5 day complete blackout can be effective in treating green water, especially when combined with use of a UV steriliser. The base causes should also be treated as green water can quickly return. Plant Maintenance
Planted aquariums can be a beautiful addition to your home, but the plants require regular maintenance to keep them looking their best. Trimming The thing about aquatic plants is that you can’t prune them continuously and expect new shoots. Aquatic plant species are always in the process of shedding old growth to put energy into new shoots and leaves. If you trim the top of your stem plants to keep them short, eventually those old stems might not provide any new growth as they will be too far-gone to do much of anything. What you should be doing every time you trim tall stems is completely discard the lower portion, and replant the healthy top you’ve just trimmed off. Because it is healthy and adapted to your tank conditions already, it will quickly sprout new roots and begin growing. With that said, there are some species such as Rotala rotundifolia that tolerate trimming and will still put out new shoots from older stems even after a few trims. However, the bottom stems will still deteriorate eventually and will need to be discarded. It’s easier to trim and replant tops than keep track of which old stems need to go next. It makes sense to discard old stem sections that have been shaded by the growth above. They won’t look as nice as the freshly trimmed tops and won’t bounce back as well. By providing plants with an enriched substrate or root tabs and regular water column fertilisation, plants will grow healthy for longer, and bounce back faster from the mechanical stress of being trimmed. When you’re pumping CO2 and fertilising heavily, trimming and replanting of stem tops will be a regular requirement. Low-tech tanks will require much less frequent trimming. Damage It’s important to remember that most aquatic plants do not renew old or damaged leaves. They will always put their energy into new growth, absorbing old and damaged leaves to do so. Fast growing plants and stem species in particular will happily discard old growth that is underperforming, whether it’s shaded, deteriorating, or otherwise damaged. This is because they are generally able to quickly create new growth that will provide better energy conversion. With regular fertilisation, the breakdown of older leaves will be slowed, and the overall appearance of leaves will be improved as they receive the nutrients they need for healthy growth. Older leaves on slow growing plants such as anubias may even revitalise if nutrition is improved, as these slow growers need their leaves to perform for longer periods of time. Damaged or deteriorating plant growth in general should be discarded to reduce the chance of algae appearing, as it loves the nutrients leaking from these leaves. Replanting You’ve put in some plants, and after a while they have finally settled in to your tank and are starting to grow. It’s comforting to see and a great indication you are on the right track. Now, rather than leaving the plant alone, the best thing you can do for it is to trim off the healthy top section, discard the old lower stem (with roots) and replant the top. Those old sections of the plant that were grown in different conditions won’t improve and will only hinder the plant. Not only that, the new section of growth is going to look a lot nicer and will be completely adapted to the conditions in your tank. From The LCA Team Every Solution For Your Aquarium  Appearance Staghorn algae grows in individual, short branching strands that appear greyish-green in colour. Their branching formation looks a bit like antlers. Staghorn algae usually grows along leaf edges but can appear on hardscape as well. It’s usually caused by high levels of ammonia and excess organics, and will favour stressed, unhealthy or old plant growth. Low levels of pressurised CO2 will also encourage Staghorn algae to grow. Treatment If your tank is still cycling, your ammonia levels will be high - this can’t be avoided without disrupting the process. Wait for your filter to establish its beneficial bacteria and observe the algae to see if it subsides on its own. If you have an established aquarium, start by cleaning your filter if you haven’t done so recently. Siphon any detritus from your substrate and perform a 50% water change (this should be done weekly). Plants and leaves can be misted with hydrogen peroxide or the whole tank can be treated easily with products such as LCA Carbon Plus or Triple B. Spot dosing or full tank treatment will help slow the spread of Staghorn, or weaken the algae so it can be more easily removed by hand or algae eating livestock. You can also completely remove any affected growth completely to stop the algae from getting a foothold. Healthy, unaffected plant growth can be replanted. If you’re using pressurised CO2, consider if you are injecting the correct amount into your system and adjust if necessary.  Appearance
GDA appears as a fast growing, green film, usually on hardscape and the sides of aquariums. It’s easy to wipe away but will quickly regrow, sometimes overnight. The difference between GDA and Green Spot Algae (GSA) is that GDA forms a thin green film, with no formation of dots like with GSA. GDA is often develops in tanks with low plant mass and excess organics, in tanks with high light and nutrient rich water, and is encouraged by warmer water temperatures. It also frequently appears in tanks that are still cycling or in those with insufficient beneficial bacteria. Treatment First, you should increase your plant mass so that your nutrients and light are being used. Maintain a regular maintenance schedule of siphoning detritus and changing water on a weekly basis to ensure nutrient and organic levels don’t get too high. If you’re using pressurised CO2, consider if you are injecting the correct amount into your system. Less severe cases of GDA can be treated easily with products such as LCA Carbon Plus or Triple B. In severe cases, starving the GDA of all light sources with a 3-5 day complete blackout can be effective. Keeping nitrate levels low during this period until the GDA dissipates may also be helpful.  What’s the right amount – and can you have too much?
Most people will recommend your filtration should have a turnover of around 10x the total volume of your tank per hour. So for example, a 100 litre tank should have a 1000lt/h filter running on it (if not 1200lt/h to make up for filter media/hose length reducing this rate). This is to ensure good mechanical and biological filtration, providing the best foundation for great water quality. Debris/organics will be more likely to be removed by the filter, and beneficial bacteria in the filter will benefit from the flow. A larger filter also means more filter media, which allows for a bigger bed of bacteria to grow. It’s a win all around! Many aquariums don’t have this level of filtration, relying on smaller, low-flow filters like HOB (hang on back) filters or underpowered canister filters. The problem with low flow, apart from poor filtration capabilities, is that nutrients and CO2 are not distributed evenly throughout the aquarium. CO2 exists even in low-tech aquariums, just in much smaller quantities. While good flow is important in any aquarium, some considerations need to be made to ensure problems don’t arise. So what’s wrong with higher flow? It depends on how your flow is directed in your aquarium! If you have a narrow outflow directed at your hardscape and plants, they’re getting blasted with pretty intense flow. A lot of aquarium plants aren’t used to these fast flowing conditions and will get physically stressed, especially those with delicate leaves which can get damaged. The stressed plant is weakened; damaged leaves get less support from the plant and start ejecting organics. Suddenly you have BBA! The flow starts blowing microscopic bits of BBA around your tank where it looks for stable surfaces to grow on – usually slow growing plants like anubias and also your hardscape (especially driftwood). You’ll usually see it form on the outflow of your filter as well, where it can get all the nutrients it likes. If your CO2 levels are unstable, the BBA will likely worsen as your plants struggle to adapt to the fluctuating conditions. Your planted aquarium might be perfectly healthy otherwise, but when plants get stressed they will always attract algae! So I need good flow - how can I keep the flow but fix the problem? There are a few easy steps you can take. If you’re using a narrow filter outlet, changing it for one that spreads out your flow can be beneficial. For example, a spray bar or lily pipe will create a wider and therefore more gentle outflow than a single tight stream. If you can direct the outflow, point it away from plants/hardscape/etc and out into unoccupied space. If you have slow growing plants, delicate leaves or hardscape being affected by BBA and they’re in the path of your outflow, shift them somewhere else in your aquarium. Remember, damaged leaves are not going to be repaired by the plant and will be leaking organics. The best thing you can do for the plant is trim off any affected leaves, which will let it focus on new, healthy growth. Keep up with your fertilisation to make sure all your plants are growing healthy and without stress, and make sure you’re injecting enough CO2. Whether you’re using pressurised CO2 or you have a low-tech system (which still has CO2 in much smaller amounts), you need to make sure your water circulation is adequately dispersing the CO2 throughout your aquarium. You can keep a high flow rate in your aquarium, just watch where it’s going! From The LCA Team Every Solution For Your Aquarium  Appearance Spirogyra generally grows on plants in dense, medium to long curling threads. It is usually caused by low CO2, excess organics (especially iron), too much light or poor water circulation. Treatment To treat, start by manually removing as much as you can. If using pressurised CO2, reassess the amount you are injecting to see if it is sufficient. Clean your filter to reduce organic waste, and while the spirogyra is present, increase frequency of water changes – weekly if you are not already doing so, 2x per week otherwise. If your photoperiod is longer than 7 hours or your lighting is particularly intense, reduce your schedule to 6 hours and observe over 2-3 weeks for any changes. If you are using fertilisers containing Iron, consider adjusting your dosage rate or using a product containing less iron to reduce the levels in your aquarium water. If circulation is poor, you can add a circulation pump, upgrade to a more powerful filter or trim overgrown plants to allow for better flow. Trimming plants has the added benefit of creating more bushy growth. Treatment with products such as LCA Carbon Plus or Triple B is effective in weakening or inhibiting algae growth and may be suitable for combating spirogyra as part of a total treatment plan. 
Appearance Cladophora grows in short, green filaments that are quite tough. It typically attaches very firmly to hardscape in the aquarium, such as wood or stone. It can also grow throughout plants such as moss and carpeting species, creating a tangled mess. Some hobbyists will purposely keep Cladophora, as it can look appealing when added to hardscape and carefully managed. In fact, marimo moss balls are a type of cladophora and are widely kept in freshwater aquariums. If not intentionally introduced, cladophora can be caused by slow water circulation, areas receiving no flow and intense light, areas overcrowded by plants or decaying undergrowth. Generally speaking, low flow encourages this algae to form. Treatment To treat, first manually remove as much as possible, which can be difficult. For mild cases, you can spot-treat with hydrogen peroxide misting or products such as LCA Carbon Plus or Triple B. Any old or decaying growth should be pruned or removed. Similarly, overgrown plants should be trimmed and tops replanted to help with flow. If lighting is intense, consider adding more plants to use the light available. Increasing growth rates of your existing plants is recommended by optimizing your pressurised CO2 (if using), and adjusting fertilisation rates if required.  Planted aquariums can be a beautiful addition to your home, but the plants require regular maintenance to keep them looking their best. Trimming The thing about aquatic plants is that you can’t prune them continuously and expect new shoots. Aquatic plant species are always in the process of shedding old growth to put energy into new shoots and leaves. If you trim the top of your stem plants to keep them short, eventually those old stems might not provide any new growth as they will be too far-gone to do much of anything. What you should be doing every time you trim tall stems is completely discard the lower portion, and replant the healthy top you’ve just trimmed off. Because it is healthy and adapted to your tank conditions already, it will quickly sprout new roots and begin growing. With that said, there are some species such as Rotala Rotundifolia that tolerate trimming and will still put out new shoots from older stems even after a few trims. However, the bottom stems will still deteriorate eventually and will need to be discarded. It’s easier to trim and replant tops than keep track of which old stems need to go next. It makes sense to discard old stem sections that have been shaded by the growth above. They won’t look as nice as the freshly trimmed tops and won’t bounce back as well. By providing plants with an enriched substrate or root tabs and regular water column fertilisation, plants will grow healthy for longer, and bounce back faster from the mechanical stress of being trimmed. When you’re pumping CO2 and fertilising heavily, trimming and replanting of stem tops will be a regular requirement. Low-tech tanks will require much less frequent trimming. Damage It’s important to remember that most aquatic plants do not renew old or damaged leaves. They will always put their energy into new growth, absorbing old and damaged leaves to do so. Fast growing plants and stem species in particular will happily discard old growth that is underperforming, whether it’s shaded, deteriorating, or otherwise damaged. This is because they are generally able to quickly create new growth that will provide better energy conversion. With regular fertilisation, the breakdown of older leaves will be slowed, and the overall appearance of leaves will be improved as they receive the nutrients they need for healthy growth. Older leaves on slow growing plants such as anubias may even revitalise if nutrition is improved, as these slow growers need their leaves to perform for longer periods of time. Damaged or deteriorating plant growth in general should be discarded to reduce the chance of algae appearing, as it loves the nutrients leaking from these leaves. Replanting You’ve put in some plants, and after a while they have finally settled in to your tank and are starting to grow. It’s comforting to see and a great indication you are on the right track. Now, rather than leaving the plant alone, the best thing you can do for it is to trim off the healthy top section, discard the old lower stem (with roots) and replant the top. Those old sections of the plant that were grown in different conditions won’t improve and will only hinder the plant. Not only that, the new section of growth is going to look a lot nicer and will be completely adapted to the conditions in your tank. From The LCA Team Every Solution For Your Aquarium |
